Parma
Via Emilia, made to be constructed by the Roman consul, Marco Emilio Lepido, at the beginning of the 2nd century B.C., leaving from ancient Ariminum (the modern-day Rimini) where the Salaria ended, crossing the Po Valley to Piacenza.
On that ancient route, rose rows like pearls on a necklace, beautiful cities and towns which over the centuries were enriched by artistic treasures. And along the street or at a short distance from this is the Republic of San Marino, Sant' Archangelo di Romagna, Ravenna, Bologna, Ferrara, Modena, Sabbionetta, Parma, and finally Piacenza.
It is a route worth dedicating a vacation (possibly not in August; it's very hot, nor in full-blown winter when there's often fog), stopping for at least one full day in each place; in some two days would be better. Between them is Parma, at the highest classification spot for quality of life; it's a city with a happy and friendly spirit with a strong artistic and cultural tradition in which prominent names stand out such as Benedetto Antefami who gave us the Duomo and Baptistry, in red marble from Verona; the Correggio, who worked on the Camera di San Paolo (St. Paul's Room) in San Giovanni Evangelista and in the Duomo and "il Parmigianino" who frescoed the Church of Santa Maria delle Steccata and parts of San Giovanni.
Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, the city has a glorious tradition in the areas of music and theater, fully embodied in the marvelous Regio Theater, wanted by Maria Luigia and inaugurated in 1829; it is one of the most famous theaters in the world which is joined with many other musical buildings.
The center of Parma is dominated by the very grand building, Palazzo della Pilotta", worthy of the capital of a country but born as the service building of the court to be integrated with Palazzo Ducale; it was realized by the Farnese family in the 17th century and called "Palazzo della Pilotta" because the game "pelota" was played in one of the internal courtyards. Inside the building there is the Farnese Theater (1618) completely wooden and constructed on the model of teh Palladiano Theater of Venice. The building is also home to the National Gallery of Art with works by Parmigianino, Canova, Tiepdo, and Leonardo da Vinci. On the first floor there is the National Museum of the Middle Ages. The large piazzale-garden opposite has a lovely layout with greenery, water, trees, and areas to rest; it is the work of architect, M. Botta, from Ticino.
But beyond the general pleasantry of the entire city center and the high quality of many buildings, two to be taken calmly are the masterpieces of Benedetto Antelami: The Duomo and Baptistry.
The large Romanesque-Gothic Duomo is the most spectacular of those of the city along Via Emilia; it was begun around 1059 and consecrated in 1106.
It presents a pitched roof, three rows of loggia, and three portals, but the façade was originally between two towers, like that of the Duomo of Fidenza, for whom only one tower was realized, constructed between 1284 and 1294. The second tower was begun in 1602 and immediately interrupted. If the timing is right, there is perfect lighting inside, and going in you'll feel immersed in a magical, golden, colored space, entirely covered by paintings and decorations which are perfectly harmonious and never weighing for their variety. There are real vaults and arches and painted vaults and arches following each other and interpenetrating, subdividing and multiplying the space. On the walls there are countless stories of saints and miracles. A miracle itself is the Duomo, rich and balanced, majestic and lovely, mighty and welcoming: there isn't a disturbing element. All overflows but at the same time all is necessary for its perfection. In the transept there is the moving "Deposizione dell'Antelami" on the wall. The Correggio painted the dome between 1525 and 1530, depicting the Assumption of the Virgin surrounded by the Apostles, ephebe, and angels with musical instruments and the patron saints of the city in the pendentives.
Next to the Duomo, the Baptistry of Parms is one of the highest expressions of Romanesque-Gothic art in Italy. With octagonal shape, over the architrave of the northern portal that is towards Piazza delle Vergine, the monument bears the date of the beginning of construction and the name of Benedetto Antelami, who directed the works and realized almost all of the decorations of the building. The eastern portal is called "del Giudizio Finale" (of Final Justice) and the southern called "della Vita" (of Life).
The solemn interior, Gothic, is subdivided by sixteen ribs which irradiate towards the pointed vault, converging in the keystone and ring. At the center, the double immersion baptism tub, also with octagonal shape, dates back to the end of the 13th century. Still within the interior is the cycle of months and seasons, and the respective zodiacal signs sculpted in the Antelami.
The Parma Stream brushes the historic center and coasts the Ducal Park, within which is Palazzo Ducale. Today it has a classical appearance. It was constructed in 1561, designed by Vignola next to the new ducal gardens. The modern-day appearance is, however, fruit of numerous episodes of remodeling, the first work of Bibiena and following in 1767 by Ennemond Petitot, architect from Lyon who worked a lot in Parma.